A Qingtian barista makes coffee. [Photo/Tide News]

In Qingtian, a mountainous county in Lishui, Zhejiang province, that grows no coffee beans, cafes outnumber those in many large cities.

Coffee here is not a trendy import but a daily staple woven into local life. In this hometown of overseas Chinese, coffee has become a cultural hallmark and a driver of local economic development.

The county’s coffee culture evolved over decades, making it more than a short-term market fad. Early returnees from Europe brought with them coffee-drinking habits, equipment and beans, serving it mainly in family settings.

Later, local entrepreneurs opened the first public cafes, and over the course of 30 years, coffee spread from the county seat to surrounding towns and villages, becoming a part of residents' daily lives.

The county introduced coffee-making standards in 2024, covering training and product quality, laying a foundation for the industry's formal growth.

Qingtian's coffee industry is powered by small, community-rooted independent cafes. They range from riverside spots with European-style views to cozy neighborhood shops, each attracting loyal customers through distinctive blends and house-roasted beans.

Coffee has also fueled the growth of cultural tourism. Many cafes serve as sightseeing spots, connecting with pedestrian bridges and European-style streets, forming convenient coffee and sightseeing routes popular with young people and families.

From coffee beans carried home in migrants' luggage to the thousands of cafes found today, Qingtian's coffee story reflects how an imported tradition took root through its overseas Chinese heritage.